Northern Michigan Garden Maintenance, Renovation & Design
6829 Herkner Road Traverse City, MI 49685
10 Apr 2014

Vole? Not a Mole?

Many of you have seen our posts about voles, but do you really know what this creature is and what he can do in your garden?

voleMost of us have heard of mole control, but not vole control. Why? Well, the latter gets little recognition but may be making his presence known in your gardens now.

Voles vs. Moles

Many may not know the difference between moles and voles, but even those who are not landscaping enthusiasts have heard of moles.  Most people go their whole lives without ever so much as hearing about these similar-looking pests.   To make matters more confusing, these pests are sometimes referred to as “meadow mice” or “field mice.” But when you identify the damage they cause in lawn and garden alike, you’ll quickly learn that this is no “little” pest control problem.

Since voles are not the only animal pests responsible for runways in lawn and garden areas, they are often confused with these other pests you’d like to get rid of – moles.  Both moles and voles are rarely seen, making more sense to base identification on the signs they leave behind, rather than on how the animals look. After all, you may never come face to face with either of them!

voledamage

Vole Damage: 

  • Well-defined, visible tunnels, or “runways” at or near the surface, about two inches wide, a result from the voles eating the grass blades, as well as from the constant little feet traffic.
  • White, stripped branches, near or at base of shrub.

Moles Runways:

  • Running just beneath the surface, the feeding tunnels appear as raised ridges running across your lawn.
  • Feeding tunnels network deep below the surface, but are marked by the soil excavated from below.

Voles leave no mounds at all behind. What they do leave behind is this:

IMG_4226

(insert-start crying now!)  With the winter we have had, they had a tough one too!  So they made a feast of your shrubs and possibly lawns.

What to do with the vole damage?  Well, if it is in your lawn, you can add some compost and grass seed and soon no one will know the difference.  Your gardens are a different story.

Most importantly, you must remove all damaged wood from your trees & shrubs.  Leaving the damaged, exposed wood is just an invitation to pests and disease, possibly further damaging others in your landscape gardens.

Adding compost and good fertilizer early in the spring can be just what they need to grow past this little inconvenience.

Now to get rid of those little rascals, stay tuned for next weeks post.

25 Mar 2014

To Prune or Not To Prune – Hydrangea Dilemias

As spring approaches, I find myself dreaming of beautiful Hydrangea flowers. I have 5 different varieties growing in my gardens. I am frequently asked how to care for Hydrangeas so that my customers can encourage and enjoy blossoms in their gardens too. Do you wonder when or how to prune your Hydrangeas?

limelight
limelight

The first step to beautiful flowers is to determine the variety of your hydrangea. If your plant produces big pink or blue flowers, it is a variety of Hydrangea macrophylla, commonly referred to as a mophead hydrangea. If your plant produces round and white flowers, it is a variety of Hydrangea arborescens. If your Hydrangea has large, open conical shaped flowers you own Hydrangea paniculata.

If you are caring for mophead varieties, the first thing you must do is choose a cultivar that is hardy to Zone 5, preferably Zone 4. The best time to prune for shape is immediately after bloom in the summer. Some varieties may set blooms on new season wood, but all mopheads set flower buds on the previous year’s growth. Here in Northern Michigan we often have dieback due to late frosts. In late May, prune back stems to the first live bud.

Hydrangea Live Bud
Hydrangea Live Bud

Early spring is also a good time to cut out dead stems all the way to the ground to encourage the plant to send up fresh growth.

mophead
mophead

Hydrangea arborescens cultivars such as Annabelle, Incrediball, and Invincible Spirit all flower on new season growth. The best approach to control floppiness is to cut the entire plant down to a height of 8-10 inches in late fall or very early spring.

Annabel - before
Fall Annabelle before cutdown
annabelle after
Fall Annabelle after cutdown

Hydrangea paniculata cultivars include Tardiva, Pink Diamond, Limelight and QuickFire. These beauties also flower on new season growth. They may be left tall if you prefer the height. To keep plants more compact and flowering fully, prune all wood back to a diameter equal to your pinky finger. You may be cutting the plant nearly to the ground, but spindly stems produce spindly flowers. This type of pruning is best done in late fall or very early spring. This will seem drastic but they will grow back!

Quick Fire
Quick Fire
Limelight
Limelight

As always make sure to give your hydrangeas a good feed in the spring. The genetics of the plant determine bloom color. With some cultivars, soil pH can change color. If you have questions regarding proper fertilization and pH modification of your beautiful hydrangeas, The Mossy Tree would be happy to assist with recommendation and application.

Fortunately, even if you make a mistake in pruning, the Hydrangea will live on but just not flower for a season. They are a very forgiving bunch! Beautiful flowers can be yours starting with soil preparation, identifying which type of Hydrangea you have to work with, and a little hard work.
Now if the snow would just melt….

15 Mar 2014

Preparing for Gardening 2014

Although this won’t get your hands dirty or even feel the warmth of the sun, now is the perfect time to start planning your gardening journey for 2014.

DSC_92251.  Keep notes on annual seed and plant purchases, past garden successes and failures, and even new things to try. If you have those, it’s a good time to review these before you start planning your seed and equipment orders.   Maps of past gardens will help you rotate plants and avoid overcrowding when planning spacing of plantings.

IMG_41902.  The winter months are a good time to start a garden journal or even just a file where you can store articles clipped out of newspapers and magazines, or lists of ideas you want to try in the garden. A good place to get a few new ideas is by taking a class or joining a garden club. Most gardeners love to talk about gardening and won’t mind sharing some of their tried and true methods and products with you.

IMG_27773.  Check the seeds you saved and stored from last year’s garden. Discard anything that is damp, diseased, moldy, or in otherwise bad condition. Look over what’s left, and determine what you need to order.

DSC_01354.  It’s wise to plan your seed order with other gardeners. This will allow you to save money while growing a wider variety of crops and flowers. In addition, some seed companies offer discounts or free seeds for early bird and/or large orders. Just don’t fall into the trap of ordering more than you can use. That’s where the notes you kept from past years will be useful.

DSC_34545.  Planning your landscape plants. Although you wouldn’t be able to plant them now, even if you could buy them, this “down time” in gardening is perfect for planning. Start thinking about what you need to fill in gaps in your landscape or what new plants you’d like to try.

snowshoes6.  Throw on your snowshoes and take a walk around your property to visualize where landscape improvements are needed or where you might put in a new flower bed.  Also consider adding things for winter interest (ie, trees for bird food, shelter; red twig dogwood for color; hellebores for early flowering; etc)

DSC_01747.   Above all, think about color, scents, textures, and shapes. Then scout out companies that carry what’s on your wish list.  If you have any questions about how to plan color scents, textures, and shapes, your friends at The Mossy Tree would love to help!